Ocean in view! O! The joy!

William Clark, Nov 7, 1805

This is what William Clark wrote in his journal upon reaching the Pacific Ocean after the arduous trek across the Louisiana Purchase. Clearly, my walk across Spain isn’t nearly the challenge the Corps of Discovery faced, but I do feel a great sense of accomplishment in reaching the literal end of the trail, Kilometer 0.000

It’s not entirely joyful though as I’m really sad about leaving the friends I made along the way. I started walking exactly 1 month ago on June 30 in Bayonne, France. I’ve since walked 28 of the last 31 days. Physically, I’m ready to be done walking, my shoes, feet, and ankles are worn out. Spiritually, emotionally, mentally, I’m not so sure. I love really enjoyed the pattern of life on the trail. But, all good things must end.

I’ll have a wrap up post later so will focus this on the last several days.

The rest day in Santiago was much needed. Visited the Pilgrim’s Museum which had a nice collection of things exploring pilgrimages in general, St James life and portrayal, and the evolution of the Santiago Cathedral and city. Well worth a visit. Spent some last time with my walking crew before we all went our separate ways.

Then, it was back to the trail for me. It was a drizzly grey day so the views of Santiago from the foothills weren’t as nice as hoped, but still impressive.

Made it about 20 kilometers and posted up for the night. The next day was supposed to be 34 kilometers which I wasn’t going to walk so took the bus. Upon arriving it was only 10:30 so I figured I’d knock out 6 or 7k to another hostel down the line. Got there and had one of those Camino moments. As I’m looking for the hostel I run into this Australian guy who starts telling me all about his several months hiking around Spain, basically stringing several Camino routes together.

It’s pure monologuing, I’m not saying a word. We get to the bar where we have to check in to the hostel and he immediately starts monologuing to a woman and her daughter he met earlier on the trail. I check in, order food, get my food, eat my food, and he’s still talking. At this point, it’s maybe 12:30 and I’m realizing I’m about to commit to 8+ hours in a hostel with this guy who can’t stop talking before I can plausibly go to bed. Given where we were we’d likely be the only people there, meaning I’m his only audience.

And it’s in a tiny village so there’s literally nowhere else to go. I decide I’m not up for that so I pay my bill, tell them I’m not staying and walk another 13k to the next town. All to avoid an overly talkative Australian.

Anyway, that means I arrived in Finnisterra a day early and walked to the end of the line. Literally, the ends of the earth as this was considered in medieval times. It was a lovely walk today. I started this trip on the northeast coast of Spain and ended it on the farthest west coast you can reach. Not bad for a middle aged fat guy…

Medieval bridge

Terrain

Vakner Sculpture - a werewolf like creature that terrorized pilgrims

First sight of the ocean

And, Finnisterra, which was a madhouse of tourists and people ! Just nuts, but so beautiful. The boot is a small sculpture on the rocks, and there’s a lighthouse that I forgot to take a picture of with my phone, just the real camera. I did get a pic of the foghorns though…